We’ve recently got back from a glorious two weeks in Kalkan – it should have been 10 days, but there are far worse places to be holed up in than Kalkan, waiting for ash to clear.

We arrived to glorious weather. As normally happens we were the only ones in the apartment, so had the pool all to ourselves for the entire time, and used it. It was quite fresh, April after all, but only for a few minutes. It proved to be a wonderful place to watch the swallows and house martins hurtling around, just back from their winter migration, and from our vantage point on the hillside, we could see many of their nests. We took a pair of binoculars out with us, and a European bird book for our guests. The binoculars are also invaluable for getting a close and personal look at the luxury yachts sailing into the harbour, and watching the diving lessons going on in the bay.
The season starts in Kalkan on 1st May, but many of the restaurants are open all year, and we always go to one of our favourites on the first night – for us it’s part of the holiday. The food presentation, freshness of the food and attentiveness of the staff puts the UK to shame. This time we got to know a number of small local restaurants, which are half the price of the more sensational restaurants, and just as good. We discovered lahmacun (pronounced lamajun) which is a pizza like base with minced meat and herbs on top. Absolutely delicious. Also pide bread – again quite pizza like and filled with potatoes and spinach, or cheese and tomato. This is almost street food, and you find it at the local markets, or to take away.

We had read about an English lady who had married a Turk and ran a bed and breakfast in the mountains above Kalkan, and did the most amazing breakfasts. We had emailed before we left and booked this in for the two of us and my husband’s brother-in-law who was coming to join us for five days. As it happened he wasn’t able to fly because of the ash problem, but we still drove up. We parked early, and wandered round this ancient village, almost before anyone was up. We saw a little owl, hoopoe, crested lark, and so many birds we couldn’t identify. We came across a young man on a horse, with saddle bags, a sort of young Turkish John Wayne – he looked so interesting, but apart from Merhaba (hello) we weren’t able to talk to him. I am trying to learn Turkish at home, but most of the Turks speak such good English they won’t let you – they’d rather speak in English.

Breakfast turned out to be memorable. Home made yoghurt, cheese, tomatoes, bread - fresh and warm, that just kept coming, home made jams, local honey, and lots of interesting conversation with Pauline. Pauline is a keen gardener, and there were roses, profuse tumbling plants, almost like an English cottage garden, surrounded by wonderful views up to the mountains and down to Kalkan, and everywhere butterflies, tortoises, and the song of birds.

One day we decided to go to Olu Deniz before the hoards of Brits get there in the summer holidays. We got as far as Fethiye – about an hour away – but the road was blocked because an international cycle race was coming through. We asked a driver in front of us what to do, and he told us to follow him as he was going to take a diversion. We wouldn’t have missed it for the world – through cedar forests, small villages, breathtaking views, and eventually down into Olu Deniz. Scenically beautiful, but the approaching strips of hotels and restaurants you go through to get to it was very off-putting. Dippy Dora’s Disco etc. More karaoke bars than Japan, and all English styled restaurants. We also went to Kaya Koy, which used to be a Greek village until 1923 when all the inhabitants were repatriated to Greece in an exchange system. It is hauntingly beautiful, and we wandered around for a long time. The church is wonderful – but it is all so sad.

On the way home we called in at Letoon –watery temple remains, quite near Xanthos. We had read you should go near sunset because of the noise of the frogs. Rumour has it that Leto had twins fathered by Zeus, and when Hera, the wife of Zeus found out she chased Leto to this spot. There she was not allowed to let her twins drink the water so she turned all the shepherds into frogs. This may be true, there are literally thousands of them there, and the noise is earthy and primal. Wonderful!

We had decided to put an awning up the length of the balcony as it is a beautiful place to eat if you’re not down by the pool, but does get hot. We chose a blue and white striped fabric in keeping with the décor of the apartment . It was done and delivered during our two week out there. Time keeping is not the strong point of the Turks, but my goodness they do get things done quickly. We are thrilled with the blind, and it really makes a difference. We also bought a kelim for the sitting room. We were allowed to take four home to choose and take the rest back the next day. Then there is period of bargaining over an apple tea which is leisurely, and usually mutually satisfactory.

There is a dual carriageway being built to by pass Kalkan, although no-one can really see why, as there isn’t that much traffic, and the Kalkan website has been full of it with photos for weeks. It is an immense site, with the biggest earth moving machinery I have ever seen, but we were totally unaware of it in our area. In any event they cover fast distances every day, so it shouldn’t take for ever to finish. The one good thing is that they are creating a pedestrian walk from Kisla to Kalkan a bit lower down the hillside, which will be wonderful. This has started already, but it is difficult to see the finished route at present.

Because tourism is important to Kalkan the rule is that all building work must be finished by 1st May. It was extraordinary watching the countdown to this date – roads were filled, walls built, skips were filled and taken away, balustrades were painted, pots planted up, restaurants were totally refurbished, as they are mostly outdoor it was easy to see what was happening. And lo and behold by the time we left everything was sparkling and fresh.

We have had wi-fi installed over the winter, and so took our laptop with us, and were able to keep up with the unfolding drama of the volcanic ash. We also took out an ipod dock and apart from the usual arguments over whose selection we listen to – it was a great asset.

We are out again in June. We just can’t wait. In the meantime we are having new curtains made which we will take out with us. So far we haven’t had to pay excess baggage, but the day will come I’m sure. I’m always told I take out far too much, which is probably true. One thing I am slowly learning is that you really don’t need high heels, or even platforms in Kalkan, a lot of the tiny roads and lanes are cobbled, and flat sandals are much more sensible – and save a lot of weight in the case.

And then home, at last, to the joy of all the bluebells out, sun, green leaves, and two week’s worth of mail to get through and sort.

England and Kalkan – really the best of both worlds.